I am retired, work alone, and build custom electric guitars as a hobby. I enjoy
the work, and do not consider it a business.
It's been said that the best way to make a small fortune at guitar building is to
start with a large fortune. These instruments are created to satisfy serious musicians
that want more than a production or even a brand name custom shop instrument
can provide. I am able to build no more than about 12 instruments / year, most
of them commissioned. Each guitar takes between 55 and 120+ manhours to build,
corresponding to a calendar time of 8 - 12 weeks.
WHAT "CUSTOM" MEANS:
The definition of "custom" varies from maker to maker. Most don't allow much in
the way of variability.
I enjoy building a custom guitar that an experienced player wants, but cannot
get off the shelf or from a big name custom shop. With very few exceptions almost every aspect
of the guitar is open to a variety of choices. Sometimes it's difficult to get across
to a customer how many choices he really has.
HOW A CUSTOM IS DEVELOPED:
A specification sheet is developed for each instrument through interaction with the
customer. The instrument is priced based on the spec sheet and sent to the customer
for review / comment. The average spec. sheet goes through 2-3 revisions. If the price
is acceptable to the customer, a 60% deposit is made and the latest revision of the
spec sheet is approved by the customer for the build. Once production starts, the
customer receives weekly updates via email with pics as applicable on the progress
of his instrument. After production is complete, the balance + shipping costs are due
prior to shipment of the instrument.
ABOUT HEADSTOCKS:
Most people don't realize that a headstock shape is like a signature.
Brand name shapes represent that model or brand, and are often trademarked to protect that
"signature". While there is precious little real estate on a headstock that can
make it unique, we all strive to do exactly that. I have developed 3/side and 6/side
headstock shapes that are unique and are used on Onyx Forge customs as seen below.
Additionally, each of the shapes can be reversed for a different look, or for a
left handed instrument. The can also be lengthened for 7 string versions. If a
customer has a unique headstock shape that they'd like to use, that can be done,
provided it meets certain design and functionality criteria. The Onyx Forge logo
is applied to the face of all headstocks in Paua Abalone, black or white Mother
of Pearl. An undyed binding stripe is also a nice touch and is less expensive and
more exotic looking than plastic binding.
Examples below from left to right - click pics for larger images:
Standard 3/side tilt
WB 3/side tilt (shape courtesy of Wayne Bjerke, a customer and talented artist out of N.Y.)
KW 3/side tilt (shape courtesy of Ken Warmoth)
Modern 6/side tilt
Vintage 6/side tilt
PRICING:
Prices are not posted because the majority of guitars built are commissioned customs.
They vary greatly in configuration, and vary in price accordingly. Pricing is based
on the manhours required to build the custom. ALL materials needed for the build
are bought with no markup to the customer. My costs for standard materials and most
electronics is below what most individuals pay, and is reflected in the quoted price.
Significant variations in price arise from:
Body and neck woods - Some species are getting more difficult to locate or are
protected in the wild and grown commercially on very small scales. Prices and
availability can vary greatly for the more exotic woods
Body style and contouring - There are a number of popular guitar shapes that
have essentially flat bodies. Examples are the Stratocaster and Telecaster. They may
have contours for the belly and arm, but are essentially flat on the front and backs.
Then there are carve top guitars that require thicker tops if a translucent finish is
used to avoid showing the lamination line of the top and backing blank. Carve top
guitars are generally more expensive due to the extra time and more expensive thicker
top required.
Finish - I specialize in nitrocellose lacquer over translucent dyes that show the
wood grain. There are also a host of other alternatives, including opaque colors,
chrome, chameleon, etc.
Choice of hardware - chrome, gold or black.
Bridge type - Trem, hardtail, Tune O Matic, including Piezo versions of each
for a very wide tonal range. Because a Tune O Matic style bridge is higher off the
face of the guitar, the neck must be set back at a slight angle.
Pickups - Manufacturer, model, type and quantity.
Inlay - Special inlay on the fretboard, truss rod cover, etc. If you have
an inlay pattern that you want, submit it via email for a cost estimate. All inlay
materials are natural, generally consisting of Paua Abalone and black, white or gold Mother of
Pearl. The default fret marker dots are 1/4" round, the side dots are 3/32" diameter, both
in Paua Abalone, white, black or gold Mother of Pearl.
Binding - Each perimeter that is bound affects price, e.g. body front, body back,
neck, headstock face. A great alternative to plastic or wood binding is to do an undyed binding
stripe around the body face. I think it's more attractive than plastic and is essentially
free.
Construction method - All are available here and are listed from most expensive to least:
Single piece body and neck, through body neck, set neck, and bolt neck. I will add that
as far as playability, tone and sustain, a bolt neck guitar with zinc alloy inserts
and stainless steel machine screws rivals or beats the more expensive construction
methods. A damaged headstock or neck on a guitar with a non removable neck is a problem.
Piezo bridge / active pickups. I have done many Piezo / magnetic pickup combinations
that allow for very wide tonal range / variability as well as stereo output.
FEATURES:
VINTAGE OR MODERN ELECTRONICS - For customers that want a vintage
vibe or the most modern piezo, active, Midi combos imaginable - if it is commercially
available, It can be incorporated into your custom and will be warranted by Onyx Forge.
CUSTOM WOOD PICKUP RINGS / CONTROL COVERS / PICKGUARDS / KNOBS - I make my own custom
wood pickup mounting rings for humbuckers, P90's, and sometimes single coils.
Control covers and pickguards are also frequently custom made from exotic woods.
Dome knobs are available in Ebony, Tigerwood and Boxwood. More common commercially
available versions of all of these items can be used as well, based on the customer's
spec.
HARDWARE - Almost all hardware, such as the bridge, tailbpiece, tuning machines,
etc. can be obtained in chrome, black or gold. Black and gold are more expensive.
Because the gold is plated 24K, it is quite thin to keep costs down, and can wear
off rather quickly. Shooting lacquer over gold helds the wear problem to a degree.
EXOTIC BODY & NECK WOODS - If it's commercially available, legal to obtain and works,
it can be done. Choices of wood species for the neck, body, knobs, truss rod cover,
trim rings, control covers, etc. can make a fairly standard guitar design unique,
even unforgettable.
STAINLESS STEEL FRETS - Considered standard on Onyx Forge Customs.
Although stainless is much harder to work than the softer "nickel silver" frets,
once installed, they last forever and notes bend like butter. A quick lesson in
metallurgy: Nickel plated wound and plain steel strings are harder than standard
frets. When a string wears against a fret at the same location, the fret suffers
because it's softer. Stainless steel frets are harder than the nickel strings,
so the nickel strings take the heat. BUT, you normally change strings long before
the string is physically damaged enough to notice. Contrary to some popular myths,
stainless steel frets DO NOT change the tone of a guitar.
PLATED STAINLESS STEEL HARDWARE – I do plating here, allowing
me to finish 18-8 stainless materials in either black or gold. The black
is done chemically and is not paint. Gold plating is 24K. Gold or black on stainless
steel is very hard or impossible to find commercially for all the screw sizes used
throughout a guitar in either slotted or Phillips head.
UNIQUE AND NOT SO UNIQUE FINISHES – Using custom mixed aniline and metal based
dyes. These are typically shot in combination with nitrocellulose lacquer finish
coats, cured 10 days prior to final sanding / polishing. I also do opaque colors,
satin nitro, and oil finishes.
CUSTOM PICKUP & SWITCHING COMBOS – Routed pickup pockets can
be mixed to include any combination of pickups desired. Switching combos are almost
limitless. I am a strong believer in spending a little extra time and money on a custom
to allow its full tonal potential. Includes split / phased humbuckers, tapped stacked
single coils, series / parallel switching, balance blend pots in lieu of 3-way
switches, active pickups, piezo bridges and onboard preamps. All of my customs
equipped with LR Baggs Piezo bridges (hardtail and trem) have switchable stereo
/ mono output and come with a "Y" cable that allows magnetic and piezo output
signals to separate channels or amplifiers.
PLAYABILITY – All Onyx Forge Customs are set up "from the ground up". During
the build process, 3 separate surfacing procedures are done to ensure frets
are level. Frets are then polished. After the guitar is assembled and tuned to pitch,
a complete setup is done, including optimizing the relief, setting intonation,
action / string height and nut adjustment. A minimum of 24 hours later, after the
instrument "settles in", the setup is re-checked and adjusted as necessary.
CASE - Every guitar is shipped in a case. The least expensive case is available
for the home player that does not do a lot of traveling. It is a commercially available
rectangular Tolex case with locking gold hardware, black plush interior and
storage compartment. The next levels are heavy duty custom fitted cases made my Unitec.
The outline of the instrument is submitted to the manufacturer for a custom
recessed fit. These cases come in 3 levels, all having the same fitted interior
in your choice of red, blue, purple, black, silver, green, tan:
LEVEL 1 - Rectangular Ozite exterior in gray or black, custom fitted recessed body, storage
compartment, ball corners, full length hinge, heavy duty rubber handle.
LEVEL 2 - Rectangular black Tolex exterior, custom fitted recessed body, storage compartment,
ball corners, full length hinge, heavy duty handle.
LEVEL 3 - ABS "Elite" ATA certified with aluminum valance; heavy duty latches; accessory
pocket. Ball corners, full length hinge, heavy duty handle.
THREADED ZINC ALLOY NECK INSERTS - Used with 18-8 stainless steel machine
screws connecting the neck and body. This allows a very tight neck to body
interface, maximizing sustain. You never have to worry about stripping the wood
screw threads in the neck. The pic below is the refurb I did on my American Strat,
including new satin nitro finish, stainless frets and a neck kit installation. Click
the pic for a large view.
CUSTOM LAMINATED STRING NUT – In my experience, the best playing
guitar in regard to tone, action, phrasing and bending (and I have played
many makes and models), is my 1980 Ibanez Artist. Why does it play so well?
Back in that era, Ibanez used a laminated nut on their higher end models. They
are part Corian or bone, with a laminated strip of brass at the fingerboard side.
Ibanez no longer makes these nuts because of the higher cost of fabrication.
i have developed a similar nut made with alloy 260 brass and Corian, bone, or
Graphtech that is warm sounding, has great tone (not too "bright" as is said of
pure brass nuts) and is very smooth and easy to bend and phrase notes. These
nuts are hand made and slotted. Since the string rests on brass,
the nut will last much longer than one made of pure Corian, bone, or other soft
material.
NOISE MITIGATION - All control cavities and internal surfaces are painted
with conducting paint grounded to the output jack (black surfaces in the
pockets). The drilled wire passages between cavities and the backs of plastic control
cavity covers are also coated. Electrical continuity / DC resistance between all
cavities is checked prior to assembly. This essentially seals all the electronic
components into a grounded "container" through which little or no unwanted radio
fregquency (RF) noise can penetrate.
ELECTROSOCKET JACK / CLOTH WIRE – I prefer to use the Electrosocket jack cup
unless the customer requests an alternate. They're recessed into the side of the
instrument, and are fastened directly to the body with 1" long 18-8 stainless
steel screws. Single strand cloth insulated wire allows a contiguous piece of unbroken
core wire to be strung through 3 or more lugs. This allows for connections that are
highly resistant to vibration and shock.
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So.... what are you waiting for? Give me a call and get a price on a one of
a kind custom electric guitar based on your specs! It's probably less expensive
than you think. Thanks for visiting the site.
Roy B.
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